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From: Verna

Beautiful North Cali (Sonoma)

Subject: California Chardonnay

Could you suggest a buttery Chardonnay for before-dinner drinking? Also, could you suggest a wine for a Raclette dinner? Raclette is a type of cheese that melts in a special tray before boiled new potatoes are poured in. It’s accompanied by Cornichon pickles and a sausage grilled on top of the tray.

I eagerly await your response!

Hi Verna:

Thanks for your inquiry. This is actually the second of your queries that I’ve answered in my column in just a few weeks (see The Best Corkscrew: Consumer’s Corner #7). Keep up the good work!

Napa near the Oak Knoll Cross

I’ve included both parts of your question here because I think that the same grape, namely Chardonnay when grown in California, can satisfy both needs. Chardonnay is one of the most malleable of wine grapes, able to express radically different elements of terroir and winemaking style even when grown in similar places. It is thus a perfect varietal with which to explore new food-and-wine pairing territories.

First, let’s talk butter. That buttery flavor in Cali Chard comes from a secondary fermentation, after the alcoholic one, that converts malic acid (found in green apples) to lactic acid (found in milk and byproducts such as butter). This process is called malolactic fermentation, where green, bright flavors are converted into milky, smooth ones. It occurs on a molecule-for-molecule basis (i.e., one loses a bit of green apple for every bit of butter added), and it also happens to most reds spontaneously but must be coaxed out in whites. Thus, in reference to white wine, “malo” is usually a winemaker’s choice.

Many New World producers, seeking bigger, rounder flavors, initiate this process in their Chardonnays. This is why California Chards often taste buttery, while White Burgundies (also made from Chardonnay in France) do not. In my experience, most California Chards will have at least a bit of a buttery element, but as we’ll see later, this isn’t always true.

So when trying for a buttery style, grab some of the William Hill Chardonnay that hails from Napa, California. Italian peach, bitter lemon-lime and smooth lanolin layer themselves on a rich, moderately acidic finish. This richness betrays the malo and gives this wine weight without sacrificing too much elegance.

Another fun thing to do in N. Cali

Another winner is the Bridlewood Estate Chardonnay Reserve Santa Lucia Highlands. Lychee, pear and apricot resonate on the nose, while honey, graham cracker and light toast play gracefully on the palate. A moderate level of acidity and a long finish make this not necessarily a food wine, but it’s still very good.

Wrapping up the buttery portion of our program, seek out La Crema’s Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma. It’s subtle but also complex, with spicy yellow apple and pear flavors that meld perfectly into a hint of thyme and tarragon on the oaky finish.

Now for the Raclette. I love this peasant dish, so wonderful in the spring when potatoes are just starting to peak! It’s tempting to pair what amounts to a rich, cheesy sauce with an equally rich, buttery Chardonnay, but I think that’s a mistake because there’s not enough contrast. A lot of great pairings are based on opposites, and fortunately California Chardonnay can take on an entirely different set of traits that work well with buttery foods.

And now the Central Coast

Look for the crisp, tightly wound Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Santa Barbara County, with laser-precise pineapple, cantaloupe and green apple notes that are firmly focused and quite full-bodied for a white wine. This is most impressive on the finish, where the flavors are juicy and round, and would be great with any hearty foodstuffs.

Also try to find the complex, mineral-laced Chalone Chardonnay Chalone out of the Central Coast area. This mixes restrained pear and controlled slatey goodness with pleasant earthy notes and white flowers. Tightly wound and full-bodied, it ends with a lengthy, coherent finish.

One last recommendation would be the Macrostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Wildcat Mountain Vineyard. Its tropical fruit, fig and honey layers are sinuous and smooth. This classy, elegant wine ends with a hint of lightly toasted oak that would match perfectly to Raclette.

While these recommendations can get you started, remember that any competent wine manager should be able to steer you toward a good California Chardonnay, whether buttery from malolactic fermentation or not. The choice is up to you.

Recommended:

White

William Hill Chardonnay 2008 (California, U.S.) $16

Bridlewood Estate Chardonnay Reserve Santa Lucia Highlands 2008 (California, U.S.) $15

La Crema Chardonnay 2007 (California, U.S.) $30

Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2007 (California, U.S.) $20

Chalone Chardonnay Chalone 2007 (California, U.S.) $25

Macrostie Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Wildcat Mountain Vineyard 2006 (California, U.S.) $40