Unfiltered, Unfined

Wines at a recent Colorado judging

I live in Colorado, so you may think that I have to travel far and wide to get to wine country. In reality, top-notch vines are only a few short hours away on the Western Slope. A recent invitation to the opening of Colorado Winery Row has made me realize that I’ve been remiss in not recommending more Colorado juice that has finally started to come of age.

Unlike the eastern side of Colorado, the Western Slope has a climate conducive to all sorts of fruit crops, including the noble European grape varietal, Vitis vinifera. Most local wines are made in small, family-owned wineries, and the warm days and cool nights are perfect for growing grapes and making award-winning wines.

There are also two American Viticulture Areas now extant in the Centennial State: the Grand Valley AVA and the West Elks AVA. Each produces distinctive wines because of slightly different climatic conditions. While West Elks on the Western Slope between Paonia and Delta seems to favor whites, good Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, and Merlot wines can also be had. The Grand Valley AVA from Grand Junction to Palisade brings forth top-notch red wines, most recently Rhone varieties like Syrah, to complement the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that has long had a reputation in that area. This region also boasts some of the best Chardonnay in the state.

Setting up the 2009 Denver International Wine Fest

To me, the biggest problem with Colorado wines has not been quality. There have always been good and even very good bottles. But because of a lack of business scale, they’ve been generally more expensive than similar counterparts from California, Washington, Oregon, and even New York, Texas and Virginia. While the first three states on this list are by far the most influential in American wine, based on my recent tastings Colorado is finally ready to join the others on that next tier. One note: while most of the following recommendations were tasted at Colorado Winery Row’s opening event, some were sampled on other occasions.

I’ve long felt that Colorado whites can be world-class, and my opinion was reinforced by the syrup-textured but bone-dry Garfield Estates Viognier, a mélange of peach, lemon cream and honeydew with a medium-long finish and moderate acidity. It’s perfect with appetizers of all stripes, and great with medium-firm cheeses.

At the sweeter end of the spectrum try the crisp and fruity Bonacquisti Wine Company Riesling. Green apple and cinnamon lead to Peach Melba on the elegant finish. It’s easy to drink and not too hard on the budget.

Another well-made white is the slightly spicy Cottonwood Cellars Gewurztraminer. Delicate floral scents merge into more substantial honeysuckle and ripe pear flavors, leading to a finish that’s pure and fruity.

While whites have long been a Colorado specialty, red wines are now starting to make their mark. One I recently enjoyed was the Bonacquisti d Red, a blend that shows orange and chocolate mint on the nose, followed by cherry, green pea, tobacco and black tea on the long, slightly sweet finish. Very unusual, and pretty good to boot.

Another top red was the Verso Cabernet Sauvignon. Verso Winery only makes Cab Sauv, and winery tastings usually consist of a vertical selection of vintages. I was most impressed by the mushroom-tinged 2005, replete with olive tapenade and blackberry aromas that precede tons of red plum on the palate. Moderate in both acidity and length, it’s a very pleasant Cabernet for the money.

At The Infinite Monkey Theorem winery with Ben Parsons

As for my last Colorado red wine recommendation, I’ve previously written about whites from The Infinite Monkey Theorem Winery, made by “mad scientist” Ben Parsons in an old Quonset hut near downtown Denver. But when Ben and I sat down together recently, it was one of his reds, the Malbec, that wowed me. Dark purple in color, with hefty plum, blackberry, charcoal and dark-chocolate, this is a powerful bottle of juice that shows all the potential of Colorado’s Western Slope.

Finally, Colorado dessert wines, although not particularly famous, have evolved since their humble beginnings as sweetened fruit and port-style bottles. Try the BookCliff Adagio, made from Black Muscat. Sweet cassis and raspberry fruit blend with a creamy texture that’s perfect for a milk, cream or butter-based dessert.

Colorado wines are finally coming of age. Next time you’re looking for something different, search the wine aisles for a Colorado wine and enjoy!

Recommended:

White

Garfield Estates Vineyard Viognier 2009 (Colorado, U.S.) $20

Bonacquisti Riesling 2008 (Colorado, U.S.) $15

Cottonwoods Cellars Gewurztraminer 2009 (Colorado, U.S.) $15

Rosé

Garfield Estates Vin Rosé 2008 (Colorado, U.S.) $9

Red

Bonacquisti d Red NV (Colorado, U.S.) $15

The Infinite Monkey Theorem Winery Malbec 2008 (Colorado, U.S.) $30

Verso Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Colorado, U.S.) $20

Dessert

BookCliff Adagio Black Muscat 2008 (Colorado, U.S.) $12/375ml