Unfiltered, Unfined

Rosé is always fun

Rosé, pink wine that is relatively dry, usually gets short shrift.  This is probably because we’re accustomed to thinking of wine as either white or red.  In fact, there’s a whole universe of blush out there, and many of them rival the quality of those boring old whites and reds at a fraction of the cost.

One of the best things about dry, pink wines is how well they match a variety of foods, particularly on the lighter end of the flavor spectrum.  Rosés are therefore often produced specifically for the summer season.  Their higher acidity and hint of tannin allow them to pair perfectly with warm-weather appetizers through main courses all the way to dessert.  Blushers can be sparkling or still, bone-dry or slightly sweet, but all are by definition food wines.

Rosés can be made in several different ways, and most producers don’t indicate method of production on the label or in sales materials.  The wines listed here are categorized based on the best information I was able to dig up, but really, if you like the wine then don’t worry about technique.

Blending rosé is just not that common

Blending is the simple mixing of red and white to impart color.  This method is quite uncommon, discouraged in most wine growing regions except for Champagne.  Even in Champagne, several high-end producers do not use this method but rather employ the Saignée process (see method #3, below).

However, there is still quite a bit of blended rosé Champagne, including the non-vintage Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé.  Strawberries and cherries fold nicely into a rich, mousse-like texture, and a hint of Indian spice continues from start to finish. Nice length on this impressive bubbler, which would be divine with pastry-enclosed appetizers, especially if lightly fried.

The second production method - what most people probably think of when envisioning rosé - is based on the idea of contact between the skins of red grapes and their resulting juice for a short while, usually on the order of a couple of days.  Almost all wine grapes have whitish flesh, and upon pressing the skins are discarded rather than left in contact throughout fermentation as is done with red wines.  Skins contain much strongly flavored tannin and other compounds, and their quick removal leaves both color and taste more similar to that of white than of red.

Skins impart color to wine

One of my favorite pink wines made using this process is the Bodegas Borsao Rosé, Grenache-based from Campo De Borja in the province of Aragon, Spain.  Salmon pink in color, with aromas of strawberry and rhubarb, it is dry and tasty with a refreshing, herb-laced finish.  This inexpensive crowd pleaser should be consumed young and served with fruit-based dishes and vegetarian entrees.

Another is the juicy Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine out of the Provence region of southern France.  Interestingly, wineries in Tavel are only allowed to produce rosé, never white or red.  This particular example is very round with nice depth to the tobacco, pink cherry, strawberry and allspice flavors.  The finish is long and solid, and would pair well with lighter game and fowl of all sorts.

Finally, rosé can also be produced in a style known as Saignée, or bleeding of the vats, which involves separating out a naturally occurring lighter fraction from a darker one.  When a winemaker desires to impart more tannin and color to a red wine, some of the pink juice from the must can be removed at an early stage.  The red wine remaining in the vats is intensified because total volume is reduced, and the must involved in the maceration is concentrated.  The pink juice that is removed can then be fermented separately to produce rosé.

As previously mentioned, some Champagne houses use the saignée process, and one of the best at a reasonable price is the finely beaded Duval-Leroy Rosé de Saignée.  Hints of cherry and cinnamon up-front lead to a bit of brioche and currant on the long, fine finish.  Just as with the previous sparkler, great with apps.

Of the many non-fizzy saignée rosés out there, one of my favorites is the tiny production Bernardus Rosé Monterey County Saignée de Pinot Noir.  Mellow cherry and vanilla custard dominate the nose, yet the wine has a soft pink hue and minty, nutty flavors.  A real pleasure when set alongside medium-hard cheeses and assorted antipasti.

Lots of rosé in South Australia

Another saignée I enjoy is from Torbreck out of Australia’s Barossa Valley, modeled after the dry rosés that come from Provence and made in much larger quantities than the Bernardus mentioned previously.  Dark pink in color, with a smell of slate, cinnamon, pepper, roses, and strawberries, in the mouth it is dry, medium-bodied and balanced.  There are layers of flavor here and a lengthy finish, great for those grilled meats so common in summer.

Finally, just because it’s rosé season doesn’t mean you have to forego dessert wine!  Check out Adelsheim’s Deglace out of the Willamette Valley in Oregon, available in half bottles, full of strawberry, peach and orange blossom aromas and a supple, generous texture.  Deglace would be perfect with any semi-sweet fruit dessert, from fresh seasonal berries to fruit sorbets, poached pears or apple tarts.

A rosé by any other color would not be rosé.  True rosé is one of the joys of the wine lifestyle, especially during summer.  It should definitely be a part of your seasonal drinking routine.

Recommended:

Sparkling

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rosé NV (Champagne, France) $48

Duval-Leroy Rosé de Saignée NV (Champagne, France) $40

Rosé

Bodegas Borsao Rosé 2009 (Campo de Borja, Spain) $9

Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2008 (Rhone Valley, France) $17

Bernardus Rosé Monterey County Saignée de Pinot Noir 2009 (Monterey, California) $25

Torbreck Saignée 2009 (Barossa Valley, Australia) $21

Dessert

Adelsheim Deglacé 2008 (Willamette Valley, Oregon) $33/375ml