Unfiltered, Unfined

Hillside vineyard in Paso Robles, CA

Last week I highlighted some of the juice that’s impressed me during the past year that hadn’t yet made it into any of my columns or articles (see Potpourri Part I). But there was only one problem - I didn’t have room for all of the bottles I wanted to mention. So, without further ado, here is more of my “List of Noteworthy Wines About Which I Haven’t Yet Written Much of Significance.”

Organic production has been one of the hot topics in wine over the past several years. To me this has been a bit of a red herring, because too often quality has been sacrificed for the sake of a certification or some hypothetical definition of political correctness. Bluntly, the wines have cost too much to be worth what’s in the bottle.

But recently this mindset has changed, as top winemakers are discovering the benefits of working with nature. At L’Atelier Restaurant in Boulder, Colorado I had a delightful Emiliana Natura Sauvignon Blanc from the Colchagua Valley in Chile. Green pea and mint framed tart boysenberry and moderate acidity. Inexpensive, good length and charm, and organic to boot. What a concept.

Rock under soil in eastern WA

One of the biggest stories for me this year has been the increasing relevance of Washington wines in the national marketplace. The most lasting impression from both of my trips to Washington this year (see Wine’s Toughest Job and Yakima Wines) has been the fruit’s amazing purity filtered through various (quite different) terroirs. While much of the emphasis here (as in most areas of wine country) has been on expressing terroir, the Buried Cane Riesling showed why blending to include various flavors is often a good idea. The wine’s precise cucumber, grape and starfruit aromas led to delicate, light kiwi and pineapple on the bright finish. Perfectly balanced and reasonably priced.

Many of my most memorable wine moments come from informal lunches and dinners with winery personnel. One such lunch took place at Elway’s steakhouse with Ann, Paul and Chris, where I sampled the delectable Stonestreet Chardonnay Broken Road. Up-front sweet peaches and orange butter cream gradually faded to fresh pears dipped in honey. I’m not usually a big fan of big, bold California Chard, but this was well-made and smooth, very enjoyable.

Halloween at Hartford Court

Later that same meal we tucked into the stunning Hartford Court Pinot Noir Arrendel Vineyard. Red licorice and apricot jam aromas joined menthol, cola, tea and pomegranate on the cranberry-tinged finish. Long, sweet, and quite impressive, this wine also has an impressive aging record regardless of vintage.

The Marquis-Phillips Grenache, sipped at a Rioja lunch with Chris Ringland, was a true revelation for me and a reminder of what’s fun about Australian wine. Blended from three McLaren Vale vineyards in southeast Australia, this cocoa and black pepper infused beauty also oozes mushroom and blueberry cheesecake elements to form a concordant whole that’s both focused and lush.

I had another Australian moment while hanging with my friend Jerry, watching the Broncos lose during their mid-season slump. This might not be most folks’ idea of an ideal wine tasting environment, but I was captivated by the meaty Jacob’s Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Black pepper, green pepper, anise and licorice lead to a long, full, tar-and-juice palate. Really superior quality for the price.

Finally, it’s worth noting that many of my recommendations come from blind tastings, where quality always wins. A surprise treat that I might never have tried non-blind was from the southern state of Georgia, of all places. The Persimmon Creek Vineyards Cabernet Franc showed a light perfume of jasmine and violets that led to a deep red grape nose. A bit of root vegetable puree on the mid-palate, but this finished with clean, strong red fruit and orange peel extract. Probably not available everywhere, but Google it and I’m sure you’ll be able to find it.

Is there anything more beautiful than wine country during harvest?

As the preceding example shows, great wine comes from just about anywhere there’s suitable terroir farmed by dedicated personnel. So whether your favorite wines in 2009 originated in newly discovered regions or old and true favorites, make sure to put them on your holiday table. You already know they’re enjoyable, so why not include some bottles in your celebrations this month?

And if you’re looking for some new beauties to try, grab a couple from this list. I hope you enjoy them as much as I did.

Recommended:

White

Natura Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (Colchagua, Chile) $10

Buried Cane Riesling 2007 (Washington, U.S.) $14

Stonestreet Chardonnay Broken Road 2007 (Sonoma, California) $50

Red

Hartford Court Pinot Noir Arrendel 2006 (Sonoma, California) $75

Marquis-Phillips Grenache 2008 (Southeast Australia, Australia) $20

Cadaretta Syrah 2007 (Columbia Valley, Washington) $34

Jacob’s Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 (South Australia, Australia) $17

Persimmon Creek Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2007 (Georgia, U.S.) $22