Unfiltered, Unfined

In the memorable 2004 movie Sideways, Miles Raymond uttered a line that forever changed the way we think of wine. Throughout the film Miles waxes rhapsodic over his favorite grape varietal, Pinot Noir, while denigrating Merlot. This culminates in an exchange between Miles and Jack, Miles’s friend and travelling buddy.

Jack: If they want to drink Merlot, we’re drinking Merlot.
Miles: No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any #&%#*! Merlot!

Such an immense amount of Cali coverage can be unfair to the wonderful wines that come from other places. Not only are there commercial wineries in all 50 U.S. states, but by far the majority of wine grape varietals originated in the Old World, specifically Europe. Limiting one’s self to juice from California is, well, limiting. So what follows are notes on some wines I’ve recently enjoyed, whether at parties, wine events or from samples, all of which were made somewhere other than California.

Regardless of nativity, it is clearly in California that Zinfandel has achieved its greatest variety of expression. Because Zinfandel continues to mature throughout the long growing season, Cali versions have characteristics all over the red wine map, from delicate, restrained berry elements to full-bore meatiness. Some even combine a bright raspberry nose with black plums and mushrooms on the palate, and most have sufficient acidity to pair well with a variety of dishes.