Unfiltered, Unfined

Wines from emerging regions, however, are a bit more difficult to write about and sell. Many winemakers relocate to nascent wine regions for the purpose of producing something that confounds expectations and shows how suitable the area is for growing grapes. As a side benefit, this juice can also be a lot less expensive, because there’s no cachet associated with the location that would increase price.

Regardless of nativity, it is clearly in California that Zinfandel has achieved its greatest variety of expression. Because Zinfandel continues to mature throughout the long growing season, Cali versions have characteristics all over the red wine map, from delicate, restrained berry elements to full-bore meatiness. Some even combine a bright raspberry nose with black plums and mushrooms on the palate, and most have sufficient acidity to pair well with a variety of dishes.